Calling all natural headed curlies with high porosity hair or hair that is damaged by excessive heat, hair coloring, or chemical treatments! I used to be prejudiced towards a LOG method, but now I love it so much I cannot wait to share it with you.
Will it make any change? Just see what a change it makes for me and read on for the detailed LOC and LCO methods comparison, LOG application steps, and product recommendations.
LOC, LOG, and LCO Methods: What Are They?
There are many variations of moisturization-focused methods used to style curly hair such as LOC, LOG, and LCO. How do these methods differ? Which method is best for your hair? Let’s break it down.
Like the LOG method, LOC and LCO refer to different but close methods that describe the sequence, in which the products should be applied to keep hair hydrated and healthy:
The LOC Method = Leave-In, Oil, Cream
The LOG Method = Leave-In, Oil, Gel
The LCO Method = Leave-In, Cream, Oil
Knowing your hair type and hair’s porosity level is a brilliant starting point when researching what products and methods are best for you. Take the porosity test to determine yours!
The LCO Method: Low to Medium Porosity
Low porosity hair struggles to absorb moisture and product due to the hair cuticle being closed. When the hair cuticle is tight, the product will most likely coat the hair instead of being absorbed into it.
With that being said, applying an oil last is more beneficial to seal in and retain as much moisture from the leave-in and cream as possible; applying the cream after the oil will most likely result in product buildup.
The LOC and LOG Method: High Porosity
High porosity hair has the exact opposite issue of low porosity hair. The hair cuticle remains open allowing moisture in and struggling to retain it.
Applying oil on wet hair directly after adding a leave-in creates a sealing layer to lock the leave-in and water into the hair. Distributing cream prior to the oil on high porosity hair types results in over moisturization.
Full Guide to the LOG Method
The LOG method is a product layering technique ideal for high porosity curls that are craving lasting moisture. If you find that your hair absorbs products, dries quickly, breaks easily, feels frizzy, dry, or rough, or has heat or color damage, then the LOG method may be the perfect product application method for you! Here is how I do it:
What you’ll need:
- Leave-In Conditioner
- Diffuser (optional)
- Pick (optional)
Step 1: Leave-In Conditioner
Begin this step once you have shampooed, conditioned, and detangled your hair. Part your hair into sections and apply a leave-in conditioner onto soaking wet hair.
If you have medium to high-density hair, sectioning is a must! Every hair strand on your head deserves equal TLC, and sectioning your hair ensures you don’t miss any pieces. For me, the hair on the crown of my head is way more coarse and thirsty, so I do my best to apply a bit more product to that section.
Once your natural hair is sectioned you may need to use a spray bottle to rewet your hair. High porosity hair tends to lose moisture rather quickly, and you’ll have better results when applying products to soaking wet hair.
How much leave-in you apply depends entirely on your hair type. If you have fine curly hair, smaller amounts are recommended to avoid weighing it down. For thick and/or coarse-haired curlies like myself, apply a generous amount to be sure the entire hair shaft is covered.
After the leave-in is applied, use a comb or wet brush to distribute the product evenly. My go-to brush for product distribution is the Denman Brush, even though I experiment with new brushes and brands too.
Step 2: Oil
The purpose of using hair oil directly after applying the leave-in conditioner is to create a sealing layer to lock the leave-in and water into the hair. The type of oil you should use will vary depending on your hair’s porosity level:
- For high porosity hair, olive and castor oils work best;
- For high porosity hair, got for jojoba oil;
- For low porosity hair, choose argan and avocado oils.
I prefer a silicone-based hair serum/oil like the Moroccanoil Treatment to help seal moisture and prevent frizz especially during high humidity and cold temperatures. It makes the LOG method ideal during the summer and winter months.
Moreover, a silicone-based hair serum lowers the porosity of natural hair allowing the hair to attract and hold moisture over time. With that being said, I use silicones sparingly and am always sure to clarify well after use.
Step 3: Gel
The final step is to add a layer of gel over scrunched curls for hold, but, more importantly, to seal all that moisture into the hair. Use a cotton t-shirt to scrunch any excess water for quicker drying time. Do not brush your curls once the gel is applied and allow your hair time to dry so that a gel cast can form. This will ensure curl definition and shine!
For those who do not know, a gel cast is created when the gel begins to dry and harden around the curl. I used to think this was a bad thing! I didn’t want crunchy, hard curls, but I was unaware of the benefits. The gel cast holds the curl and encourages it to keep its natural formation similar to a protective barrier while simultaneously reducing frizz and sealing in moisture!
Once your hair is completely dry, begin to SOTC (scrunch out the crunch). I like to emulsify oil on my hands before I scrunch my hair in an upward direction in order to reduce friction.
You can use the LOG, LCO, or the LOC method every wash day if you want to. I find myself using these methods more for winter hair care and during summer months when my hair is craving moisture retention the most. I wash and style on average twice a week and always clarify well once a month to prevent product buildup.
Whatever your hair type, have fun experimenting with any of the above-mentioned product layering methods. I know you’ll find one that your hair loves! When you do, share your findings and results with me on Instagram @laurenpiluso. I love to chat with curly friends!