The evolving science behind what truly fuels stronger, thicker hair.
From the very beginning of humankind, hair has been an indicator of good health, youthfulness, and vitality; hence, the constant yearning for better and thicker hair is quite natural. Over time, we’ve learned what facilitates the hair growth process, what doesn’t, and what is just clever marketing.
Each advancement in science updates our concepts and sometimes topples long-held beliefs. According to certified trichologist Caroline Ruggiero, I.A.T., E.B.H.F., and CEO of Truly You Hair & Scalp Clinic in Toronto, here’s what to expect, what to halt, and what to cling to in hair growth.
Based on statistics from Charm.io, the leading ecommerce intelligence platform, the hashtag #hairgrowth has gathered over 486 million views, indicating the extent of our interest in scalp science. Research has been ramping up in response to that curiosity – and a couple of inventions are leading the charge.
“Plant-derived ingredients made using biotechnology like Redensyl, Anagain, and Procapil are showing potential,” says Ruggiero. These substances activate stem cells, increase microcirculation, and prolong the active growth period of the hair, called the anagen phase.
MicroRNA therapies – a new class of treatment based on tiny molecules capable of modulating gene expression and directly affecting hair follicles – are another innovative technology worth watching. “Studies show some exciting results,” Ruggiero notes, “as these therapies alter genetic switches for exact follicle targeting.” While still in the early stages, this research could eventually personalize hair growth treatments at the molecular level.
That said, Ruggiero warns: “Trends should not be the go-to. It’s interesting that we’re watching and listening, but if you have a diagnosed hair loss disorder, I wouldn’t reach for what’s trending first.”
Some rituals are hard to let go of, but a few traditional hair growth staples are losing their scientific backing.
Many beloved oils, often massaged into the scalp for generations, simply don’t deliver any measurable results. “They lack clinical backing for real follicle stimulation or regrowth,” says Ruggiero. While oils can nourish and condition the scalp, they don’t stimulate new growth.
Fragrance is yet another component under scrutiny. “Fragrance is getting a lot of attention, given consumers’ increased sensitivity,” Ruggiero explains. “Research shows that fragrance is a common allergen and can increase the likelihood of an inflammatory response.” With scarring alopecias on the rise, the need to reduce irritants has become more critical than ever.
Some fundamentals have stood the test of time, validated by both research and experience.
“Check for deficiencies and perform bloodwork regularly,” says Ruggiero. The essential roles of iron, vitamin D, and zinc in maintaining healthy follicles cannot be overstated, and women in their reproductive years and throughout hormonal changes are one of the most affected groups.
Love it or dread it, minoxidil remains one of the few clinically proven treatments. “People don’t want to hear it because they worry about long-term use or ‘dread shed,’” Ruggiero admits, “but research proves it time and time again – minoxidil is an extremely reliable, tried and tested treatment for many kinds of hair loss.”
And when in doubt, don’t self-diagnose. “If you don’t know why you’re losing your hair, how could you possibly know how to treat it?” she says. Ruggiero advises seeing a dermatologist specializing in hair disorders or a certified trichologist – and always checking credentials.
Many people skip wash days, dreading the sight of shed strands clinging to the drain or lining the sink. “Avoiding wash days almost certainly leads to more scalp issues and disrupts the microbiome in the scalp and almost always causes more damage than good,” Ruggiero explains.
If your usual practices haven’t brought results, it might be time to rethink your approach. Try what’s working, keep an eye on the latest scientific advances, and let good hair days return with evidence-based care.
Image via @freepik.
