Passionate author specializing in the vibrant world of hairstyling. With a knack for unraveling trends and sharing expert insights, Marissa crafts engaging content on the latest hairstyles, techniques, and industry innovations. Committed to empowering readers with knowledge, inspiration, and the confidence to embrace their unique style.
Read full bio Editorial guidelinesTo bleach or not to bleach? A hair colorist delivers his verdict.
Dreaming of that perfect ashy hair like Amanda Seyfried’s stunning silver look at the Met Gala 2024? Or perhaps you’re just in the mood for a cooler, fresher shade to welcome the new season? If you’re set on this chic transformation, there’s a lot to consider before you dive in. Let’s break down the essentials with insights from hair educator and colorist Michael Silvestri.
Thinking of skipping the bleach and grabbing a box dye labeled “ash”? Think again. Michael Silvestri points out why this might not give you the results you want and it all makes perfect sense.
Before you even think about applying any color, it’s essential to understand the levels of hair color. Natural hair colors range from level 1 (the darkest black) to level 10 (the lightest blonde). To find your starting level, use a level finder chart close to your roots. This will help you gauge how dark or light your hair is.
If the various colors make it hard to determine your level, here’s a handy tip: take a photo of your hair and convert it to a black-and-white image. This hack will help you see the true darkness or lightness of your hair without the distraction of color.
Next, consider your hair tone – the underlying color in your pigment. Hair naturally consists of four major tones: red, orange, yellow, and pale yellow. Levels 4 and darker contain more red pigments, levels 5 through 7 have more orange, levels 8 and 9 are yellow, and levels 10 and above contain pale yellow pigments.
“If you want ashy hair, you’re going to need to use bleach,” says Michael. This is especially true for those with dark hair, as it needs to be lightened to achieve an ashy color. Dark hair typically has a lot of red, orange, or gold tones. Ashy hair, being a cool tone, is stripped of all warmth. To achieve this, your hair must be lifted past these warm tones, which means bleaching is a must.
Bleach works by weakening and removing the pigments in your hair, allowing the cool, ashy tones to be deposited. Remember the golden rule: color doesn’t lift color.
One of Michael’s followers posed an important question: “Is it true that the ashy color will wash out and eventually turn warm if you’re naturally warm?” The response was clear: “It will. It requires maintenance.”
Purple shampoo can help maintain the ashy tone, but it’s only effective if your hair has been lifted to a level 9-10. For those not quite so light, regular toner maintenance is necessary to prevent your ashy hair from turning into an unwanted murky or dirty shade.
Lastly, the health of your hair plays a significant role in how well the dye adheres and how long the color lasts. Healthy hair will better hold the color, ensuring your ashy tone looks vibrant and lasts longer. So, keep your hair in top condition to get the best results from your ashy hair color transformation.
If you are looking for ashy hair color inspiration, check out 20 Alluring Ash Brown Hair Ideas to Fulfill Your Brunette Goals and 40 Glamorous Ash Blonde and Silver Ombre Hairstyles.
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