Smart care and styling for springy coils.
Some people might not know this, but type 4 hair can shrink up to 75% of its actual length. If you’ve got type 4B curls, you know that surprise all too well – your hair looks long when wet, then coils into a fluffy crown when dry. That shrinkage is part of its magic. But it also calls for tailored care, thoughtful styling, and the right haircut. Here’s how to spot 4B curls, how they compare to their neighbors on the curl chart, and the routines and styles that really let them thrive.
The hallmark of 4B curls is the zig-zag shape. Instead of forming a springy spiral, these curls bend sharply. Sandy Cannon, owner of Lux Strands salon, notes: “If you have 4B hair, you’ll notice a lot of shrinkage when your hair dries and a tendency for your curls to grow outward with tons of volume.”
“It’s usually pretty fluffy, and the curls don’t really have much definition unless you style them,” Kay Cola, a hair expert and founder of OrganiGrowHairCo, points out as one more telltale feature.
Think of type 4 curls as a gradient. On one end, 4A spirals are springy and defined, with a clear “S” shape. On the other, 4C coils are the tightest, often with less visible curl definition. 4B sits right in between: less spiraled than 4A but looser and easier to style than 4C.
Still, it’s not just the letter or number that matters. As Weena Jerome, the founder and owner of Renaissance Curls, points out, density, texture, and porosity are as important. “A styled head of 4B curls with high hair density will look fuller than a fine-textured head of 4B hair even if their curl size is the same,” she illustrates her point with a clear example.
Strong shapes and smart styling bring out the best in 4B curls. These are the looks experts recommend most.
This cut makes the most of 4B’s natural lift. Shorter sides give structure, and a fuller crown shows off volume.
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A classic round shape balances volume and lets curls form a halo effect. Kay Cola describes it as an easy-to-maintain haircut, as long as your regimen is steady.
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These styles are the go-to for definition. Twist-outs add stretch and structure; braid-outs leave curls slightly looser and more textured. As Sandy Cannon puts it, “One of my favorites is a twist-out or braid-out because it lets the natural curl pattern shine with just enough definition and styling to have your curls exactly where you’d like them.”
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Great for protective styling, flat twists and cornrows keep hair tucked and safe from daily wear. They reduce breakage, last days or weeks, and let you play with endless styling patterns. Weena Jerome recommends them for weeks when you don’t want to manipulate your hair too much.
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Moisture is non-negotiable. “Because 4B hair is more prone to breakage and dryness, keeping it moisturized is everything,” explains Sandy Cannon. To support healthy growth and maintain length, make deep conditioning your biweekly ritual. Add steam treatments, protein treatments, and bond repair treatments as needed to keep strands strong.
Weena Jerome notes that real hydration comes from regular cleansing. She recommends washing every 7 to 10 days, no matter your curl pattern, and emphasizes the importance of regular trims. “Finer textures benefit from trims every 8–12 weeks, while thicker textures can often go 12 weeks or longer if the hair is healthy,” she guides.
Type 4B hair loves gentle handling. Low-manipulation styling protects delicate strands. Rotate protective looks to avoid repeated stress in the same spots. While detangling, start from the ends, not the roots, and always work gently with a detangling brush while your hair is wet. This helps release shed strands without tugging, minimizes breakage, and keeps your curls intact.
Type 4B hair can be fluffy, defined, structured, or free-form depending on how you style it. Want more inspiration? Check out our collection of short natural hairstyles with easy tutorials or our roundup of afro hairstyles.
