The runway hair references already circulating backstage.
Hair at the FW26/27 shows seemed split between two impulses: control and collapse. One model walked out with lacquered, slicked hair styled to perfection; the next had static-like frizz floating around her face. Paris, Milan, London, and New York turned these impulses into the season’s strongest visual thread.
One trend we never expected to return was helmet hair. But that was until we saw the models at Tory Burch, Schiaparelli, Balmain, Loewe, and Chanel proudly flaunting glossy, hair-to-hair slick-backs with zero volume and maximum stiffness. It’s a highly glamorous look fit for a gala, but probably not the comfiest one for everyday wear.
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The cousin of the stiff slick-back finally relaxed its shoulders a little. Mugler and Off‑White let the natural texture show through the lengths, Calvin Klein added wet, slightly retro finishes, and Miu Miu topped theirs with wavy spring headbands. This one has the highest chance of escaping the runway and entering real life.
@fashionweek
The side part has much stronger opinions this season. Mirror‑glossy like Saint Laurent, softened with little forehead wisps at Hermès, and lifted just slightly at the roots, the way Ferragamo did it. Glamorous, grown-up, and surprisingly easy to translate off the runway.
@fashionweek
Buzz cuts appeared across Tom Ford, Marni, Balenciaga, and Givenchy, often set against dramatic earrings, bleached brows, or vivid makeup. Bone structure is suddenly front and center, along with every expression, piercing, and swipe of eyeliner. Also, no one backstage had to argue with a round brush.
@fashionweek
At Chloé, Stella McCartney, Moschino, Boss, and Isabel Marant, hair looked slightly slept in, wind hit, and slightly electrically charged. Good news for anyone tired of battling frizz with three creams, two masks, and a prayer. Texture finally got top billing.
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Several brands skipped elaborate styling altogether and simply tucked long hair into oversized collars and scarves. Courrèges, Maison Margiela, and Missoni turned the accidental winter habit into a runway detail. It framed the face, changed the silhouette of coats and knitwear, and probably saved a few models from freezing backstage, too.
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Some designers approached hair with the mindset of gallery artists. Junya Watanabe fused finger waves and kiss curls with graphic undercuts, Rick Owens sent out explosive shapes and saturated colors, and Yohji Yamamoto layered slick sections, teasing, hats, and accessories into one composition.
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Hats suddenly became impossible to ignore again. Emporio Armani revived the newsboy cap, Tolu Coker favored sculpted cloche hats, Louis Vuitton introduced aviator styles, and Celine covered hair with delicate crochet skull caps. Some looks felt borrowed from old photographs in the best possible way.
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FW26/27 runway hairstyles ranged from prim and proper to wildly undone. The season’s message? Control and chaos can coexist beautifully, and both are worth wearing.
